









I
separated from my job and embarked on a lifelong dream . . .
In 2000, I separated
from my 30 year job and was able to embark on a 4 month journey, sailing around
Lake Superior, the largest freshwater sea in the world. The only twist was
that I would take a rotating crew of 8 other artists along for the ride with
the generous support of two grants from the Michigan Arts Council and Pharmecia
Foundation and the services of a public relations firm, Lambert, Edwards and
Associates from Grand Rapids, Michigan.
.
. . the vessel rode like a truck over the choppy seas . . . its long keel
steering us unassisted . . .
The boat is
as heavy and deliberate as an ox weighting nearly 10,000 pounds of wood, lead
and epoxy. This makes the vessel ride like a truck over choppy seas. The long
keel balances the vessel so perfectly that it'll steer unassisted at varying
points into the wind. While the short mast and the conservative amount of
sail gives it stability in rough seas, it is slow going in light winds. That
prompted me into installing a midsize Universal diesel to motor us through
the frequent summer doldrums of the Great Lakes.
We
rarely relied on any single means of navigation . . . yet we truly tested
our limits of navigation . . .
For navigation,
we used a Garmin 162 GPS, a depth sounder, hard charts (maps with depths of
the lake), pilot books (navigation directions for specific areas), speed indicator,
compass and a clock. Frequently the crew would spot for me as well. We rarely
relied on any single means of navigation in case of an emergency or malfunction.
We have sailed through very foggy conditions and dark nights that have truly
tested our limits of our navigation. While we're traveling up the Pukaskwa
coast in eastern Lake Superior, we never saw a person, boat or plane for over
a week. There too, any mistake we made could have had severe consequences
and left us marooned for sometime. We realize how important it was to always
know where we were traveling offshore.

What
was most endearing . . . was the routine of simple events
. . .
What was most
endearing about cruising life was the routine of simple events, like traveling
quietly together as we the day unfolds, cooking, eating, socializing, drawing,
reading and having a good night's sleep with a quiet rocking motion of the
boat. Our mornings usually began early with sketching and photography. Eventually,
the crew would gather to prepare breakfast while I did routine maintenance.
By late morning, we would weight anchor and traveled for several hours. During
the day, we would occasionally stop and explore abandoned fish camps, islands
or lighthouses. By early evening, we would dip into a bay after covering 20
to 30 miles, allowing ourselves a few more hours to fish, swim and sketch
before dinner. I would sometimes mess around with the boat while the daylight
generously lasted midsummer until 11 PM. We would then have a late dinner
and drift off to write journals, read and wash dishes that would past midnight.
Sunrise would only be just a few hours away. Sleep came quickly after such
a long day. Every so often, we would stay anchored all day either for the
beauty of the area or unfavorable weather conditions.
Sailing
with options and equipment fatigue . . . Two seasons not at sea, I yearn for
another long voyage . . .
I must admit
I do get wary from constantly anticipating weather, place, boat and welfare
of all aboard. Rarely do we face all those forces in our contemporaray life.
However while crusing, much of my efforts are devising options - "of what
ifs" depending on the weather, crew and boat and navigation. Over the years,
I've used this strategy whether sailing with crew or by myself and I have
significantly reduced problems at sea. I also attribute our luck to the style
of cruising - moving leisurely in short hops rather than by a tight schedule
across great distances. Fact is, the longer you are out at sea, the more likely
you'll bump into bad weather, fatigue and breakdowns. During the last few
years, we have experienced only a few sitations.. These were air in the diesel
fuel lines, a broken chock, sun deterioration on an awnings and lines, a ruptured
freshwater tank that made for a few exciting minutes "looking for the
leak" and a dead propane regulator loosing all the gas harmlessly offboard.
The majority of the problems were equipment fatigue. Now more than a couple
seasons off the Lakes, I'm listening more to the wind . . . gazing at the
sky, watching, listening and anticipating. My senses yearn and wish for another
long journey across new waters. Where will it be?
.
. . life inside resembled a space capsule . . . carrying all essentials .
. . with all of our pocessions stored beneath the berths we slept, worked
and ate from.
The flush deck
and beamy hull allowed plenty of room both inside and out. This made life
tolerable for crews up to four people at a time. We became very adept in timing
our moves by each other as well as creating "mental walls" when someone needed
to undress or be alone (we often had both sexes). Everyone had his or her
own berth for storage, a place to sit, study and draw as well as sleep. In
a way, we nearly resembled a space capsule since we, like the astronauts,
have to carry everything in such a cramp vehicle. In better weather, the cockpit
(we fondly called it our back porch) would be a place to eat, relax and to
sleep. While we had a toilet and a large holding tank, our bathroom facilities,
like the kayakers and campers, meant mostly going ashore.







Building
the boat coming from a desire for freedom on the high seas . . .
I long desired
the freedom of anchoring in bays and coves to explore the backwaters and estuaries.
I love the independence and simplicity of relying on wind, solar, a small
diesel using one's wits and intuition to live a life of adventure while documenting
remote areas of the North. However before all this could happen, my family
and I spent four years constructing Alwihta in our driveway with the kids
living knee-deep in shavings and giant pieces of boat scattered about. The
construction soon resembled the skeleton of a giant whale parked in our driveway.
The thing beckoned me to embellish it with carvings of creatures that we hoped
to eventually see. As a woodcarver, it gave me a perfect excuse to create
the boat as an object d'art as well as a chapel of life. After a lot of contemplation
and research, my partner and I came up with a name of the boat 'Alwihta' which
aptly means "all creatures" in Gaelic.
Many
fine meals . . . cooked under simple conditions . . . We filled water several
miles offshore . . .
There is a fully
functional galley with a two-burner stove, cabinets, icebox, counter and sink.
Many fine meals have been cooked under these simple conditions. On some occasions,
we have successfully baked food in the pressure cooker on the two-burner stove.
In Lake Superior, where ports were far and few between, we filled our water
tanks several miles offshore away mining operations, paper plants and cities.
Since we sail long extended seasons, there is a diesel furnace that can keep
the cabin a cozy 65 degrees while it's freezing outside.
Tortoise
relief on Alwihta's doors.
Offsets
for the Kylix class cutter.
Cutaway of Alwihta's exterior/interior.
Achorage
on Raspberry Island, Apostle Islands - swimming with the bears.
Fantastic
cooking on a two-burner propane stove.
Main
saloon.
Table
for four.
Forepeak
with double-berths.
Foredeck
looking aft. Forward hatch with screen.
Sail
configuration.


Alwihta
. . . designed by a famous nautical architect . . . able withstand the North
Sea, yet a shoal draft classical boat . . .
Alwihta is a
27-foot cutter and home for me, my family and an occasional rotating crew
of artists that sailed on Lakes Michigan, Huron and Superior for the last
25 years. Speaking of cutters - they have two foresails of varying sizes and
a mainsail, which gives a variety of sailing configurations. The boat was
designed by a British naval architect, Maurice Griffiths, former editor of
Yachting World magazine in the United Kingdom. He has written and illustrated
a number of books about his cruising life along the East Coast of England.
I first came across his designs when I read, Eric and Susan Hiscock's 'Cruising
Under Sail' who had circumnavigated the world several times during the late
40s, 50s and 60s. Alwihta's lines are similar to the traditional boats that
fished along the coasts of England during the later part of the 19th century.
These vessels were capable of hauling large cargoes in and out of the shallow
tidal bays, yet able to survive the treacherous storms on the North Sea. Indeed,
Maurice felt passionate that shoal draft designs were equally capable of weathering
storms as the deep keel boats. His philosophy about boats immediately appealed
to me, with little regard to what I was getting myself into; I fired off a
letter to Yachting World and waited. After many months in anticipation, an
apologetic letter came with a packet of several of his designs. I was instantly
taken by the 'Kylix' class of cutter meaning 'shallow vessel' in Greek and
bought the plans.